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We take great pride in our brand here at UK Oak Doors and that shows in our customer feedback, achieving an average approval rating of 9.1 out of 10 stars on Trustpilot. We have found from reading hundreds of frank and honest customer reviews that some of this praise is due to our customer service and reliable shipping. But we know the real heroes are the doors themselves and more specifically the oak trees that gifted us with the wood in the first place. So, as quoted throughout our site we cannot stress enough the importance of oak door care - treating and maintaining oak doors correctly to preserve the beauty and strength of the wood. All our internal and external doors are supplied untreated but the quality of the treatment is a moot point if the door is not correctly cared for prior to treating and hanging. This article describes essential oak door care and what vital precautions must be taken regarding the packaging, storage, treatment and maintenance of your door.

It may seem like an unnecessary aspect to consider but the sound a door makes when being used and its noise insulation characteristics say a great deal about the quality of the doors in your home. It’s something you may not even have noticed but at least subconsciously you will have. Anyone who has the privilege of driving a modern luxury car will appreciate the satisfying ‘clunk’ the door makes when shut especially compared to older cars. Indeed, some of the higher end brands have actually invested parts of their development budgets in perfecting this aspect of the motoring experience. The solid ‘clunk’ of the door says more than you would appreciate. It affirms the cars build quality impressing upon the owner and passengers of the security and safety of the automobile.  The sound of a car door is a fairly well recognised selling point in the industry but it succinctly highlights that the same is true of any door and this is underappreciated when it comes to doors at home. As a domestic door is closed the sound it makes is made up of several factors, all connected to the quality of the materials used. Firstly, the noise of the door furniture such as hinges and handles, secondly the fit of the door to the frame and floor and finally the construction of the door itself. Of course how these sounds are magnified is dependent upon the characteristics of the adjoining rooms which change the echo and reverberations depending on the contents and shape but the quality of the door will be apparent none the less. The first two factors are dependent on more than just the original investment of the product but its upkeep and maintenance too. A shabby home is likely to have squeaky hinges and doors that do not properly fit the frame. Both these indicate that other aspects of the home may be as unkempt as the door, it sounds silly but all these small clues let visitors make subconscious assumptions about the home they’re in. Hinges and handles can be oiled and doors can be adjusted to fit a frame but good quality ironmongery and good quality doors will require less maintenance over time. When it comes to the third factor: that of the construction, this determines the satisfying ‘thud’ when closing. A cheap interior door uses a thin veneer over poor quality woods which mean as it hits the frame the sound is lost and absorbed by the flex of the material. A well-constructed solid oak door doesn’t flex as the joints are stronger and so the sound is reverberated to give a nice, reassuring ‘thud’. Of course we can’t stop the kids banging doors but the next time you enjoy a good ‘clunk’ or ‘thud’ you’ll know why and it’s probably a very nice place to be. Information is accurate at time of publishing, however, may be subject to change.

This is a question that has cropped up a few times recently with some of our customers so we thought it was time to put a guide together! How to fit your skirting boards into place when you have a curved bay window or other curved wall.

With October coming to a close and the nights drawing in, the temperature is noticably dropping as the season is changing. Now that it is getting cold there may be a temptation to start cranking up the heating. However, if you have solid oak doors in your home (or flooring for that matter) then don't! Heating your home is fine but try and go for a gradual change rather than suddenly putting the heating on maximum. This type of sudden moisture change can have a serious impact on your oak doors, putting strain on them which could lead to them bending or warping. If you've invested in solid oak doors then it is important to treat them well and that means applying an appropriate oil or wax finish (such as Treatex for internal doors or Impranol for external doors) and bearing in mind the conditions that will be best suited. So ease the heating on gradually over the coming weeks and avoid giving your oak doors a shock. With rising fuel costs you'll save a few pounds too :-) If you have any questions about our doors or need advice on treatments then please contact a member of the UK Oak Doors team - we will be happy to help.

The 2011 National Home Improvement Show at Earl’s Court is almost upon us. Running from the 30th September through until 2nd October, it’s the UK’s leading event for home improvers and UK Oak Doors will be showcasing an exclusive range of new products alongside some of the classic designs and firm favourites.

Recycling Old Doors: Project Ideas - Room Divider or Coffee Table? The property boom of the last decade led to millions of remodelling jobs across the country. The following slump has not dampened peoples desire to improve their homes but has merely led them to find more cost effective ways to go about it. Combine this drive for interior design and the current fashion for environmentally friendly sourced materials and you have a recipe for recycling old doors into new furniture (doors usually being the best donor wood items in the house). Part 1 of the Recycling Old Doors series was concerned with preparation and finishes for finished items and pointed out the importance of using suitable solid door wood. So, on the understanding you've read part one and have found a suitable donor door in good condition we'll look at some of the projects a competent DIYer can consider. Room Divider The best donor door for making a room divider is a solid wood 4 panel door. You'll need two doors and to safely take the weight you'll need some fairly hefty hinges too, available from any hardware store. When finished, using two doors, or rather four halves, will make a 'W' shape (when looked from above). The easiest way to go about this is to make two separate folded 'V' halves from each door then bring them together to form the 'W' shape of a room divider. Begin by cutting the first door exactly in half from top to bottom along the central muntin. Now attach the hinges to the newly cut face at the same height as was originally used when the door were hung to the door frame (normally about ten inches from top and bottom). One door is now cut in half and folds in the middle and should be freestanding. Now repeat the process with the second door. Some people consider the doors to be too heavy so remove the panels and replace with fabric if you want. The lower panel can be left totally open if using outdoors to allow wind to blow through whilst still offering a good degree of added privacy to a garden. To remove the panels drill a pilot hole in each to allow a jigsaw to cut out the centres so all of the panel can be removed. If you wish to leave the panels open use putty to fill in the grooves where the panels once slotted. Once you have made the two separate 'V' sections you can join them together with another pair of hinges to complete the structure. On a similar theme, smaller cupboard doors can be reused in this way to make a fireplace screen. See this blog post by Courtney Goodwin for a real example of this. Coffee Table Making a coffee table is a flexible project because it can be made using just about any type of door. If the donor door is a veneered flat surface door then the coffee table top can be made from cutting out the desired size of table top and then attaching suitable legs. Alternatively, a four panelled door of solid construction can be used to make a coffee table with storage facility inside. Cut the lower half of the door off through the mid rail. Then cut this part exactly in two along the central muntins. This forms the side 'legs' of the table. You'll need to find something suitable for a table top as the panelled door won't have the required parts for a flat surface of suitable size. However, by using the panels from the discarded top half of the door to form a shelf twelve or so inches underneath the table top then the basic structure is taken almost entirely from the door. Adding feet to the underside of the leg parts will lift the bottom of the unit off the floor for better cleaning access underneath. So don't discard those doors that you're replacing - recycling old doors can be a very rewarding thing to do - doing your bit for the environment, saving pennies and creating something new and unique. Stay tuned for part 3 of the 'Recycling Old Doors' series where we look at some more ideas for recycling old doors.

How to Recycle Your Old Doors Call it what you will; 'Green', recycling, environmentally friendly, etc. but long before the current fashion for re-using materials took over, people have always found new uses for old wood. Providing the timber is still of solid construction and free from wood pests it can be chopped and changed to suit the competent DIYer. Because of their size, doors are amongst the best sources of wood for recycling projects and this article looks at the different options for creating new items of furniture from old doors focusing on preparation and finish. Preparing the wood Sadly many old doors are left outside to suffer the effects of the elements. This is most prevalent in areas that have the most changeable conditions – that is regions that regularly swap hot and cold temperatures and switch between wet and dry spells. Make sure the door is brought inside for a few weeks if very wet, and allowed to acclimatise. If not, any treatments added to the finish of the door will seal in the damp and the timber will continue to rot. Once acclimatised, sand down the wood. It may be necessary to pull apart door parts to sand in between joints. If you're after for a 'shabby chic' look it is still necessary to sand down the wood, removing the old paints or finishes. If you simply paint over old finishes then once new coats of varnish or paint are applied the top surface will crack after a short time looking only shabby snd not chic. Lead Paint? Old doors that were decorated over 30 years ago have a good chance they will be coated in a lead based paint. Extra care should be taken when considering reusing old doors in this case because inhaling the fumes or dust whilst removing the paint is very toxic. To be sure it is recommended you purchase a lead paint test kit which are relatively cheap and easy to use. If you decide against having the door stripped professionally make sure you use the appropriate protective gear and create as little dust or fumes as possible. A chemical stripper gives the most control and never use a heat gun or sand lead based paints. Take care to collect any debris to prevent toxic materials entering the natural environment and ensure all waste is disposed of carefully according to local laws. Shabby-chic Finish To successfully get the shabby-chic look sand down all areas of the wood. Then clean the wood with a damp cloth and allow to dry. Apply a primer then a top coat of a different colour. Sand down a few chosen areas to allow base colour to show through. Finally, add a varnish to protect and stabilise the finish otherwise drinks and other mess will penetrate the wood in sanded areas. Applying a varnish makes the look water proof and therefore cleanable and safe in a family environment. So don't just throw old doors away - creating something new could be good way to save money. In the next article we will consider specific uses and ideas for you to transform your old doors into something wonderful. Information is accurate at time of publishing, however, may be subject to change.

Repairing a Rotten Door Frame: The strength and security of a door are only as solid as the frame it is in. One of the most common causes for an entrance requiring a new door is due to rotten wood. This occurs wherever the frame is constantly in contact with water. Obviously it is therefore most common at the bottom of the frame where standing water may collect due to drainage issues. However, it does occur where drain pipes are poorly directed or overflow regularly so that other areas of the frame are constantly damp or wet; all causing the problem of the rotten door frame. Many people believe that once a door frame has rotted it should be replaced in its entirety but if the rot is caught early enough this isn't necessarily the case (therefore freeing up some cash to spend on a lovely new oak door!). Where the frame has suffered rot it will be too damaged for any treatment and must be cut out of the frame and new wood put in its place to prevent the rot spreading. Of course it is paramount that the door and door frame should be properly treated and maintained at installation using the correct treatment products such as Hardwax Oils from Treatex or Impranol treatments for external doors but if you have a rotten door frame where the from rot is in small patches then we have a step by step guide to help remove the rot. Rotten door frame repair - Things you will need:- hammer, screwdriver, suitable replacement wood, sandpaper, nails or screws, tape measure, wood primer, chosen exterior wood coating to match frame, wood putty, pencil. Step 1 – Discover the Source of the Water Causing the Problem There's no point fixing the rotten door frame unless you address the issues causing the water to affect the door in the first place. If the door frame is over ten years old then the rot may be due to a lack of maintenance rather than a specific drainage problem. Step 2 – Inspect the Frame Carefully assess how much of the frame has been affected. Press into the wood to look for 'give' which will show problems deeper inside the wood that are not apparent on the surface. Draw a pencil line two inches above the top of the rot (if addressing rot at the base of the frame which is most common). This ensures all rotten wood will be removed from affected area plus a small 'safety barrier' of healthy door frame. Step 3 – Remove Rotten Wood After removing the door if affected area is on the hinge side, carefully cut along the line previously marked. If further rotten wood is discovered when cutting the frame then repeat steps 3 and 4 until all rotten wood has been removed plus a further 2 inches of frame from the rot. Carefully pry out the cut section and measure the size of the gap with the tape measure. Then mark out the exact size on the replacement frame material and cut out precisely. Then treat the replacement frame part with wood primer and also the exposed wood on the frame where the old rotten part was removed. Step 4 – Fit New Frame Part Depending on the thickness of the original frame use either wood glue to stick new frame part in place or screws. Wood glue should be applied to the old frame on the lower face that comes in to contact with the upper face of the new frame part (basically where old and new parts meet). In order to seal up any gaps use wood putty and then finish the job by applying the matching paint or waxes or oils to suit the original look of the frame. Sand down and retreat areas to help get a better match between old and new sections of frame. Hopefully this step by step guide will allow you to prolong the life of your frame and save you some cash. However, if you do feel that it is past saving (or if DIY really isn't your thing) then consider purchasing a solid oak door frame as a replacement that is sure to last for a very long time. Information is accurate at time of publishing, however, may be subject to change.

Sustainable Wood: What started as a growing awareness in the 80's has developed into a major force of consumer revolution over the last decade. Recognition of 'Global Warming' has slowly grown and is now accepted as a real threat by many of the world’s most powerful governments, commercial markets and industry leaders. What was seen, by some, as an unnecessary and excessive restriction on manufacturing and commerce that added to the costs of production and so reducing profits, has been spun by marketing managers in every sector to boost sales through boasting 'green' credentials to a public hungry to 'do their bit'. One such revenue raising label now commonplace is that of 'sustainable wood'. What is 'Sustainable Wood'? So, what is sustainable wood? Well, with so many products available marked as ‘from sustainable forest origin’ it's easy and probably wise to be sceptical. Many people could understandably assume that for every tree taken for industry from a “sustainable forest” then another tree is planted in its redress. Industry would therefore have no detrimental effect on the long term population of trees. At a conceptual level this is the general idea but each tree taken has further ramifications for the eco-systems it supports in its vicinity and many other dependants. Replacing an area deforested of two thousand trees with two or even four thousand saplings in its place will not undo the chain reaction of ecological or social consequences that occur as the area adjusts to the change unless done in the right way. Therefore, for the wood used in your oak front door to truly earn its “sustainable” tag it must have come from a source that maintains the regeneration capacity, biodiversity and productivity of the area it was taken. In more basic terms, sustainable wood comes from a sustainable forest that achieves a balance between the needs of consumer demands and the long term preservation of forest health, diversity and social function. Sustainable Wood and Climate Change So, why is sustainable wood so important to climate change? Climate change is now generally accepted, at least by academics and climatologists, as a bi-product of two different aspects of human interference. Firstly the collection of 'greenhouse' gases in the upper atmosphere traps thermal radiation that would otherwise have escaped into space and this causes the lower atmosphere and earth to heat up. Secondly, a major greenhouse gas is carbon dioxide. This gas is removed from the atmosphere by trees in a process that replaces it with oxygen. Careless and rash deforestation without replenishing trees reduces the number that can play their part in helping to remove carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Rough calculations show that the manufacture of plastic creates one tonne of carbon dioxide to be released in to the atmosphere and so wood from sustainable sources used instead of materials such as plastic can be recognised as part of a genuine solution. Global Awareness Are humans really to blame and therefore how important is wood from sustainable forests? The answer to that question depends on where you live and what you do for a living. As long ago as 1992 a general framework was agreed by members of the United Nations to limit and ultimately prevent dangerous human interference of the climate system. But there has been an increase in global emissions every year since then and while the problem may be global, the concern is mostly western. Indeed, a recent survey across over one hundred and twenty countries showed a third of the world’s population is not even aware of global warming. Even sectors of developed countries with more widespread access to free media contest that changes are even happening to the global climate, let alone that humans are to blame. If you look at the facts and conclude that global warming is actually happening, due to a number of factors including deforestation, then choosing products from considerate and responsible firms can help us all feel like we're 'doing our bit'. However, as discussed earlier, many are sceptical about the true environmental qualities a product has and so several officially recognised organisations have been set up so consumers can trust the claims on the packaging. One is the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) and another is the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). Both offer reliable certifications that the manufacturers claims about the origin of the wood have been checked and validated so you could sleep a little easier in that oak framed double bed you were thinking of buying... UK Oak Doors are proud of the fact that we only use fully certified sustainable wood from sustainable European forests. So if you're looking for a solid oak door that literally won't cost the earth then you've come to the right place.

The quality of the fit and performance of any door is only as good as the fixtures holding it in place. Even if you choose one of our best doors from our most prestigious ranges you cannot make up for deficiencies in the quality of the fitting. Over time even with careful use, the door fit within the frame may develop certain defects. These defects will cause the door to clip the frame in places, making it difficult to open and close or may prevent the door shutting altogether. In this edition of ‘How To Correct Common Problems with Doors’ we will be focusing on binding doors – problems with hinges, screws and latches. Binding Doors - What to do Check for Loose Screws It sounds obvious but when it comes to binding doors, one of the simplest problems that can occur with the door hinges is that the screws have come loose. This will mean the door will pull away from the frame making it difficult to open and clashing together as it is closed. If the screws turn but without actually tightening you will need to either: a) use longer screws to penetrate further into the wood b) use thicker screws (hinge bracket screw holes may prevent this) c) use glue covered splinters of wood (e.g. matchsticks) and insert them in to the hole. This will create a tighter fit giving the screw more purchase grip (but is only suitable for lightweight interior doors) TIP: to avoid binding doors check all screws are properly countersunk for a nice snug fit to the hinge metal. Strained Hinges Strained hinges can sometimes be the reason behind binding doors. This is when the weight of the door has bent the hinge out of shape. This will increase the swing radius of the door and create friction and possibly prevent the door closing altogether. If the strained hinge was not the outcome of misuse then it is likely the hinges were not strong enough for the weight of the door. We typically recommend T Hinges or butt hinges for fixing our range of solid oak internal doors. It's really down to your own personal preference as to what type of hinge you want to use. Handforged T Hinge For the more traditional style doors such as barn/cottage style or ledge and brace doors, the T Hinges work really well and are a very popular choice. As a rule of thumb, select a size of T hinge that is approximately half the width of the door (so if it's a 3' door then use a pair of 18" T hinges, if it's a 2'6" door then the 15" T Hinges would be fine). Stainless Steel Butt Hinge For the more contemporary doors such as the Mexicano or Victorian doors, you'll probably want to use a pair of butt hinges (although there is no technical reason why you couldn't use T Hinges on the Mexicano if that's your preference). We would recommend a pair of good quality 3" butt hinges, such as the stainless steel option (pictured) or the more traditional black butt hinges in a beeswax finish. The black butt hinges also look great when combined with the ledge and brace door or barn door - it really does come down to what you feel works well with your own interior. Problem with the Hinge Mortise Depths: Sunken Hinges Sunken hinges can be another cause of binding doors. This is when the hinge has been set too deep into the frame causing the door to bind with the frame at the hinge side just before it closes. To rectify this you will need to: Remove the door from the frame. Unscrew the screws from the problem hinge. Cut un-corrogated cardboard to fit behind the hinge. This will pad out the distance between hinge and frame. Reattach door to frame temporarily using only one screw per hinge to test and check the problem is resolved. Unscrew hinges and adjust padding depth using other sheets if necessary. Once sure the binding doors issue is resolved screw in the other screws to fully reattach the door. Exposed Hinges A door with an exposed hinge will exhibit the problem of the door binding to the frame on the lock side. An exposed hinge means that the metal of the hinge is not flush with the wood surface of either the door or the frame. To rectify this you will need to: Remove the door from the frame. Unscrew the screws from the problem hinge. Carefully deepen the mortise with chisel and hammer. First cut the perimeter edges of the mortise. The chisel must be vertical with the bevel side facing the mortise. Next gouge out the centre part of the mortise with the chisel bevel side down using small taps. Once metal is flush with the wood surface smooth off the mortise and screw in the hinge. Reattach door to frame.   Information is accurate at time of publishing, however, may be subject to change.

Key Takeaways Aspect Lacquer Hardwax Oil Application Factory or on-site On-site Appearance Can emulate natural look Natural, warm look Durability Sits on surface, visible when scratched Absorbed into wood, more resistant Maintenance Difficult to repair, may need professional Easy to maintain and repair Recommended Less ideal for high-use doors Better for long-term use and maintenance Key Elements of Choosing a Finish for Oak Interior Doors Desired appearance (natural vs. glossy) Expected usage and wear of the door Ease of maintenance and repair Durability of the finish Application method and expertise required Oak interior doors are not just accessories but integral elements of your home's design. After choosing the perfect style, the next crucial decision is selecting the best finish. Let's explore the options and their pros and cons. Ledge and Brace Door Mexicano Door Victorian Style Door Lacquer Finish Lacquer finishes gained popularity due to their ease of application and maintenance. Pros: Can be applied at the factory or on-site Modern lacquers can emulate a natural oil appearance Available in matt or high gloss finishes Simple to maintain initially Cons: Sits on top of the wood rather than being absorbed Scratches are easily visible, especially on high gloss finishes Repairs often require sanding and refinishing the entire door Professional expertise may be needed for repairs Hardwax Oil Finish New formulations of hardwax oils, like Treatex, offer an excellent alternative to lacquer. Pros: Absorbed into the wood for a natural, warm look More resistant to abrasion and wear Easy to apply and maintain Localized repairs possible without refinishing the entire door No specialist attention required for maintenance Cons: May require slightly more frequent maintenance Conclusion While lacquer finishes have their merits, modern hardwax oils like Treatex offer a superior combination of appearance, durability, and ease of maintenance for oak interior doors. They provide a warm, natural look while allowing for simple upkeep and localised repairs. For those seeking a balance between aesthetics and practicality, hardwax oil finishes are an excellent choice for oak interior doors. Ready to enhance your oak doors? Explore our range of oils and waxes or browse our collection of internal oak doors. For personalised advice, don't hesitate to contact us.

There are many fittings to be considered for a new external door but not only do the practicality of items need to be thoroughly considered but the style of the fixture must be in keeping with the style of the front door. When it comes to choosing a letterbox the home owner must first consider which is more suitable for their home; a traditional door mounted one or a secure and outdoor mail box lockable wall mounted one.

Sticking Doors: Common Issues and Solutions Key Takeaways Identify the exact areas where the door sticks by marking with chalk or pencil. Use sandpaper for minor adjustments and a wood plane for larger corrections. Regularly maintain doors to prevent future sticking, including oiling hinges and checking for moisture damage. Advanced solutions include using dehumidifiers and reinforcing door frames. Seek professional help if DIY methods do not resolve the issue. Understanding the Problem of Sticking Doors Encountering a sticking door can be frustrating. A door that once opened and closed smoothly may now grind against the floor or door frame. Understanding the cause is the first step to solving the issue. Sticking doors can be caused by: Changes in humidity and moisture. Alterations in flooring material. House settling over time. Identifying the Cause To correct a sticking door, determine the precise cause of the problem. Even doors installed by experts can develop issues due to factors beyond control. Here's how to pinpoint the problem: Check if the door is damp. Moisture can cause wood to swell. Examine the door frame and flooring for changes or damage. Look for visible signs of sticking, such as marks on the door or frame. Steps to Identify Sticking Areas Open and close the door slowly to observe where it sticks. Look for tight spots where the door rubs against the frame. Use chalk or a pencil to mark the sticking areas on the door and frame. Correcting a Sticking Door Once you've identified where the door sticks, it's time to fix the issue. Here are practical methods to correct a sticking door. Sanding the Problem Area Sanding is often the simplest solution for a door that's too tight against the frame. Remove the door from its hinges. Place the door on a stable surface. Use medium-grit sandpaper or an electric sander to sand the sticking areas. Rehang the door and check the fit. Tools Needed for Sanding Medium-grit sandpaper Electric sander (optional) Screwdriver (for hinge removal) Planing the Door If sanding doesn’t resolve the issue, planing might be necessary. Use a wood plane to shave off thin layers from the sticking areas. Be careful not to remove too much material. Planing Equipment Wood plane Protective gloves Realigning the Door Sometimes, a door sticks due to misalignment with the frame. Adjusting the hinges can help. Tighten any loose screws on the door hinges. Reposition the hinges slightly if necessary. Raise the hinge on the opposite side for doors that stick at the top. Tools for Hinge Adjustment Screwdriver or drill Replacement screws (if needed) Preventive Maintenance Regular maintenance can prevent doors from sticking in the future. Maintenance Tips Oil the hinges annually to keep them moving smoothly. Check for moisture damage or warping, especially during wet seasons. Paint or varnish the door as needed to protect it from humidity changes. Advanced Solutions for Persistent Sticking Doors Dealing with Extreme Humidity If you live in an area with high humidity, sticking doors can be a recurring problem. Here are advanced solutions to keep your doors functional: Dehumidifiers and Air Conditioning Using dehumidifiers or air conditioning can help control indoor humidity levels, preventing wood doors from absorbing excess moisture. Place dehumidifiers in rooms with sticking doors. Maintain a consistent indoor temperature with air conditioning. Monitor humidity levels with a hygrometer. Weatherproofing Exterior Doors For exterior doors, proper weatherproofing can prevent water ingress and swelling. Install weather stripping around the door frame. Apply a sealant to the door’s bottom edge. Ensure proper drainage around the door area. Reinforcing Door Frames In some cases, the door frame may need reinforcement to correct misalignment or warping. Adding Shims Shims can be used to adjust the alignment of the door frame. Remove the door and the trim around the frame. Place shims behind the hinges to adjust the frame’s position. Reattach the trim and rehang the door. Reinforcing the Frame If the frame is significantly warped, reinforcing it with additional support might be necessary. Install metal brackets to support weak areas. Use longer screws to secure the frame to the wall studs. Consult a professional for major structural adjustments. Advanced Tools for Fixing Sticking Doors Using advanced tools can make the process of fixing a sticking door more efficient. Power Planers Power planers are more efficient than manual planes for large adjustments. Ensure safety by wearing protective gear. Adjust the depth setting for precise material removal. Regularly check the door fit during the process. Orbital Sanders For a smoother finish, orbital sanders can be used after planing. Use fine-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish. Keep the sander moving to avoid uneven surfaces. Check the door fit frequently to avoid over-sanding. Professional Help If you’re unable to resolve the issue with DIY methods, it may be time to seek professional help. When to Call a Professional Consider professional assistance if: The door continues to stick despite multiple adjustments. The door frame is significantly warped or damaged. You lack the tools or expertise for advanced repairs. Choosing the Right Professional When selecting a professional, look for: Experience with door and frame repairs. Good reviews and recommendations. Proper licensing and insurance. Conclusion Sticking doors can be a minor nuisance or a significant hassle, depending on the severity. By identifying the cause, applying the right fixes, and maintaining your doors, you can ensure smooth operation for years to come. For persistent issues, don't hesitate to seek professional help to avoid further damage and ensure a proper fix.

Traditionally seen as the preserve of the country cottage, the locations where modern stable doors are now installed are as varied as its design is unique. Whilst the look of this door type has value in itself, the practicalities of being able to open up the kitchen for the view or breeze whilst keeping the pets or children in (or out?) has its advantages too. A fond image of postcard cottages shared by many of us contains the beautiful floral garden and the faithful, well behaved family dog curled up by the base of the half open stable door, the top half allowing just a glimpse of the culinary delights sat on top of the baking hot Aga. In reality however, a) gardens can be a pain to manage; mowing the lawn a fortnightly achievement b) the dog may well be curled up at the foot of the door but it’s because he’s been shut out, he’s not well behaved, he’s chewing on your son's trainers c) the old stable door allows through a draught at the top, middle and bottom of the door so strong the kitchen is being considered for a wind farm by the local council and d) there seem to be fourteen Tesco’s within any three mile radius so baking is not really that frequent  an occurence. Three of the above experiences are a fact of life we are unable to assist with and whilst Kiwi the UK Oak Doors office dog rarely eats our trainers there is one area that we do have a lot of experience with. That is, modern or traditional oak stable doors for homes that fit properly and securely with style.  Oak Stable Doors: Country Cottages Only? Whilst technology has radically changed aspects of life to eradicate traces of previous styles and fashions, it can’t remove the basic requirements we want for our most basic of home fittings. In fact, technology can expand the possibilities of home fittings making previously unsuitable luxuries a possibility. A perfect example of this is the modern stable door. A number of changes have occurred to modern lifestyles that have made the stable door more widely suitable to home life and technological advances in design and material sourcing have underpinned this. Climate change has thankfully yet to substantially raise average temperatures in the UK but we have seen differences in the extremes of our weather conditions and temperatures. Before the widespread use of reliable central heating, double glazed windows and wall insulation, the possibility of using the open top function of the stable door in the kitchen was limited to a few summer days per year in select parts of the UK. We’re not suggesting stable doors in homes with modern heating systems mean we can waste energy wilfully though. Actually, the thick solid oak construction of the Ox-Bow stable door is far better for heat insulation during colder periods than flimsier old style stable doors and is very efficient. It also includes an option of double glazing for the central window. Modern Build – Classic Designs However, even when firmly shut, the stable door for the house still presented further problems to energy loss and security. There are three reasons why the traditional old stable door was draughty, often leaked and, even when fully closed, presented an easy opportunity to thieves. These three reasons are 1) fitting of the door to the frame 2) the tightness of the fit between top and bottom halves of the door and 3) the sturdiness of the wood used in construction (poor quality wood/construction is obviously more likely to warp over time with the changing weather conditions and thinner wood will not support security locks). The Ox-Bow stable door from UK Oak Doors (see 'external doors') is made from 44mm thick solid European oak allowing for the fitting of insurance required security locks. The superb build quality also ensures that when fully closed the kitchen will not suffer any added heat loss compared to a conventional oak door whilst still offering the advantages of the stable door for warmer days. So for a mixture of reasons we have noticed a growing trend for city and suburban homes to include a stable door as part of a renovation or new build as well as the continued growth of installations in the countryside. Indeed, why spend thousands solely on the contents of your kitchen when for less than £500 you add a huge ‘wow factor’ to your home or investment with something like a sturdy oak stable door (unfortunately we cannot help with the behaviour of your dog). It's also worth noting that depending on the agility skills of your prized pooch, stable doors don't always mean that the dog is locked in or out! Certainly, Kiwi (pictured) is pretty adept at leaping over them... Information is accurate at time of publishing, however, may be subject to change.

Yes, solid oak doors look great in country cottages & yes they also look great in barn conversions. Of course. This goes without saying. However, solid oak doors can also add the most amazing finishing touches to modern houses and contemporary living spaces everywhere! Mexicano Door Ok... so maybe a ledge and brace door would look slightly out of place in an urban city flat but why not consider the Mexicano range; a lot of our customers have, resulting in some very happy people out there. This contemporary door is not 'over the top'; it is subtle, elegant and incredibly stylish. Not to mention the sturdiness and durability of its construction. 100% solid oak (no veneers here thank you) and handmade to an extremely high standard - the Mexicano doors will last beyond a lifetime. At first glance they are similar in appearance to the Suffolk door range but whereas the Suffolk doors have a frame on the back, the Mexicano solid oak doors are the same on both sides. The true beauty of the oak really shines on the contemporary Mexicano door range. They are supplied sanded but unfinished so you can choose what finish to use that will best match and complement whatever may already be in your home. Corsica Door Lever For the perfect modern finish, this door looks great paired with one of the range of designer door levers. There are over 15 to choose from - all sleek, stylish and a great way of adding the perfect finishing touch to contemporary solid oak doors. Another popular option for the more modern abode is the range of Panel doors. Choose from a 4 panel or 6 panel style and choose between a regular or half glazed option. Even choose from flat panel or raised with beading. Half glazed can be a great way of adding light to a property, if required, allowing light to flow between rooms. Put your individual stamp on these doors by selecting your own style of glass - clear/opaque/patterned/leaded - you can really go to town! 4 Panel Solid Oak Door The solid oak Victorian 4 panel door is a very popular choice. In modern houses, traditional terrace houses, contemporary apartments and most other abodes we find (and are told) that these solid oak panel doors work really well. They also lend themselves well to different types of finishes and different styles of door furniture. These panel doors are all 100% solid oak doors. They will last for an incredible amount of time. The panels are easily removable so if you fancy another change a bit further down the line you could easily transform them into a half glazed or even put glazing into all four panels for a dramatically different look again. There are mortice and tenon joints in all corners. The construction of these doors means that they are incredibly strong and once treated will require very little maintenance. These solid oak doors look beautiful when combined with character grade Oak flooring - you can combine traditional and modern to really great effect. We always recommend finishing with Treatex clear matt oil, which will work just as well on your solid oak flooring as your solid oak doors. Whether it's a new home or a renovation project, remember the importance of the doors and the drastic improvement that can be made by making this simple change. Be the envy of your friends and family with some truly beautiful  solid oak doors & whilst it is unquestionable that solid oak doors do look great in country cottages, don't ever be fooled into thinking that this is the only place where they belong! Information is accurate at time of publishing, however, may be subject to change.

Well the recent good weather has reminded me of a particular container that arrived in the depths of winter, it had been snowing for days and we weren't even sure if we were going to receive the container. We did manage but only with a superhuman effort from the warehouse team. So lets hope the summer continues and we don't almost get frostbite again. NL